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Always Building
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70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll never undrstand Patto's. I love their decals, but sometimes I just don't know what they're thinking. On a simple paint scheme, for your $8, you get four sets of decals, when one set is all you really need. On full wrap decals, which NEVER fit exactly right, you only get one set. If they'd supply two sets, you'd have what you need to fill in the inevitable gaps.
Having received the 2010 spoilered diecasts from Leighton, (thanks dude!), I was ready to build the 2010 JDRF car driven by Bill Elliott, which is a full wrap car. Knowing I'd have gaps between the decals, I mixed up a blue that was very close to the blue on the decal sheet, and used that for the base coat. Once it was fully dry, I began applying the decals. On full wrap cars, you have no leeway on where you apply the big side decals - they must fit the wheelwells. You can go up or down a bit, but I've found that it pays to apply them as high as possible to avoid gaps between them and the hood/trunk decals. That's why I apply the side decals first. Next, I applied the hood decal, which was way wider than it needed to be, overlaping the front fender decals. Using a pair of those tiny, curved sissors, I cut off the excess, making sure that the flames on the fender decals were fully exposed. Next I applied the nose decal, which I'd cut apart just below where the bumper curls down to minimize wrinkles and overlap. It was way too small! I had to use the scraps cut from the hood decal to fill in the gaps, applying, removing, and recutting them to fit, then reapplying them. Eventually I got full coverage, and moved on the the A,B, and C pillar decals. They fit well on the A & B pillars, but were too narrow to cover the C pillars. Fortunately I had just enough scraps left from the hood decal to fix the problem, but not with one big decal per side - each C pillar has about four little scrap decals filling in the gaps. The rear bumper decal was just a little too big, so I removed it and cut a sliver from each side, them reapplied it. On to the roof decal, which again, was too small, leaving gaps at the front and rear edges. I only had enough scraps left to do the front edge. Fortunately, my basecoat blue was pretty close, so it's not too obvious.
Man, what a job! The decal sheet came with about 20 decals on it, but I swear I applied 50 seperate decal shards to get the job done. Come on Patto's, on full wrap cars, supply two sets of decals, or at least give us an extra 4" x 1" decal of the background color/pattern to fill in the gaps with.

 

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Premium Member
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1,286 Posts
It's looks great I love that scheme and you're a brave man for doing full wraps! haha
 

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Always Building
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70 Posts
By the way, I really like the donor car. First of all, it isn't riveted together, it uses screws, making dissassembly and reassembly much easier. Second, the front splitter is part of the base, not the body, so you don't need to mask it for painting. Third, the shark fin on the trunk is much taller, more acurately reflecting the real cars. Thanks again Leighton for the two donor cars - wish I could find 10 more.
 

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5,315 Posts
Great looking work!!!
 
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