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Dboy1974
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1,332 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a couple of questions for all of the custom guys and gals out there.
I'm about to start my first wrap custom... Kahne's 2011 Red Bull/ Shutter 1:24 scale.

1) Is there any particular starting point with these wraps? Should I start from the top and work my way down?

2) Would a heat source, such as a hair dryer, help me out any?

3) For a sub base coat, grey primer? Of course sanded down, but would that be suffice for the wraps or will there be spots that will show thru that the wrap won't cover?

FYI... my deacls will be coming from Pattos and I'm using a 2011 Vickers car as the donor. Couldn't think of a more fitting use for a donor. LOL
 

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"For once, just shut up"
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6,090 Posts
my PERSONAL approach is to start from the roof, then the hood, then the doors, then the deck, then the rear and nose last...I'd also consider white paint or primer under it as that SHOULD allow your decals to really pop. As to pattos, never had any success with them, received one set long ago to help a guy out and do the decal work on a white gold donor...that said, not sure if a heat source would work...IF you are using waterslide decals there is a product called micro sol and microset that supposedly causes the decals to soften and 'stretch'/form fit to all grooves...I've never had much success with it either, I've always just relied on patience and such and things work out just fine.
my only attempts at wrap style sheets are the two logano gamestop cars I recently finished and the Mears toast the troops car from a while back.
 

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"For once, just shut up"
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another point that 'finishes' a product is trimming the hood/deck/roof flap edges with paint that matches or blends into the wrap...I use standard acrylic hobby paint and once the future finish is applied it just blends right in.
 

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Premium Member
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1,022 Posts
I use Micro Sol all the time. an additional thought to NEW2's comment about the edging to make them match, after you wrap the car, and get it like you want it, put a coat of Future on it, let it dry, and then do that about 3-4 times and your car will shine. Then, on the edges, if you dont want to use paint, use a Sharpie pen. Only do this after you clearcoat as the future will make the Sharpie run (lesson learned the hard way here). I use Sharpies all the time to fill in spots that need it. I've done a couple wraps and I hate them, but love the challange. Here is my current WIP. Not a wrap, but getting the front nose to look good was a bitch.
 

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"For once, just shut up"
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6,090 Posts
I use Micro Sol all the time. an additional thought to NEW2's comment about the edging to make them match, after you wrap the car, and get it like you want it, put a coat of Future on it, let it dry, and then do that about 3-4 times and your car will shine. Then, on the edges, if you dont want to use paint, use a Sharpie pen. Only do this after you clearcoat as the future will make the Sharpie run (lesson learned the hard way here). I use Sharpies all the time to fill in spots that need it. I've done a couple wraps and I hate them, but love the challange. Here is my current WIP. Not a wrap, but getting the front nose to look good was a bitch.
agree with the layers of future and in fact I've used it myslef to help get a part to 'cling' or fit...usually if you apply the future right away, after about five to ten minutes it starts to set up...you can take a moist paper towel and push the decal down into place and it seems to conform better to the body curves and lines..as to the sharpie, I've tried it a few times, just depends on the decals. Sometimes it's hard to match cleanly and I have learned...once you put that sharpie on...NO MORE FUTURES...it will cause the sharpie pen to bleed...not good.
 

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with the wrap micro sol works wonders .....make certian that the decals are in the exact spot you want them before you apply ...because you will not be able to move them once you apply it ( the decal becomes way to soft and will tear). I have no clue what future is ...lol I am lucky enough to have a body shop at my disposal so every car i do is shot with ppg clear coat ( gallon runs about 275 dollars) .....cant beat the shine though ....as for pattos red bull decals ....well those might not be the best wrap to start with ....there are major fit issues with the nose and it will require alot of touch ups ...at least mine did...but you could made it work .........good luck buddy ...any questions ...let me know .
 

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"For once, just shut up"
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with the wrap micro sol works wonders .....make certian that the decals are in the exact spot you want them before you apply ...because you will not be able to move them once you apply it ( the decal becomes way to soft and will tear). I have no clue what future is ...lol I am lucky enough to have a body shop at my disposal so every car i do is shot with ppg clear coat ( gallon runs about 275 dollars) .....cant beat the shine though ....as for pattos red bull decals ....well those might not be the best wrap to start with ....there are major fit issues with the nose and it will require alot of touch ups ...at least mine did...but you could made it work .........good luck buddy ...any questions ...let me know .
Walmart.com: Pledge Floor Finish With Future Shine, 27 fl oz: Household Essentials
acrylic clearcoat that dries very quickly and really doesn't react with any decals I've ever used...the ppg and a body shop would be awesome...but it's impractical and not available to most in the hobby..this stuff works great and self levels so the finish is clean and shiny while also smooth with little cleanup and little effort.
 

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Do people read these?
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6,452 Posts
Walmart.com: Pledge Floor Finish With Future Shine, 27 fl oz: Household Essentials
acrylic clearcoat that dries very quickly and really doesn't react with any decals I've ever used...the ppg and a body shop would be awesome...but it's impractical and not available to most in the hobby..this stuff works great and self levels so the finish is clean and shiny while also smooth with little cleanup and little effort.
I used this on a white custom, and started yellowing..is that normal?
 

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"For once, just shut up"
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suppose it would be relevant to the paint...I've used it on white customs and have not had the same result...the batman car in the photos is base white and still as white as the day I completed it.
 

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Always Building
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70 Posts
With Patto's decals, it's always a crap shoot. Sometimes the decals fit great, and sometimes they don't. Sometimes the design of the decals isn't very well thought out. For example, most of their Greg Biffle decals use one big decal for the entire nose of the car. This will NOT work. A flat decal will not fot a compound curve, no matter how much Microset or heat you apply to it. Both will help, but you'll stil end up with areas where the decal doubles over on itself. You can try cutting out pizza slice sections to avoid the overlap, but it's guesswork until you actually have the decal on the model. Patt's newest decals are quite tough though, and will tolerate repeated removal and reapplication, as long as you keep them wet. Another problem I've had recently is that the decals for the "C" pillars are too narrow, and won't cover the whole panel. Sometimes for your $8, Patto's sends you multiple sets of decals. I don't know if that is the case with the Kahne car, but I doubt it. Usually on full wrap decals, you only get one set. From my experience, one set will not be enough. You'll need a second set to fill in the gaps with. On that particular paint scheme, paint or a Sharpie will not be viable options. Having looked at the Patto's decals for the Kahne car on their website, I suggest buying two sets. You'll want to use two nose decals, the upper part of one, cut so that it just curls under the front bumper, and the lower part of another, for the area below the bumper. Cut this second decal higher up on the decal than you did for the first nose decal, so that it will be big enough to cover the base of the front splitter. You'll probably need to double up on the "C" pillar decals to get full coverage. You'll also need to cut the decal for the trunklid apart. Don't try to apply it over the shark fin on the trunk - it isn't big enough, and you'll end up with big gaps. Full wraps are a challenge, especially if the decals don't fit, but with two sets, it can be done. Check my latest post on my Bill Elliott JDRF car. I had to make due with just one set of decals and it was a real pain.
 
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